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Muse: Myanmar's militia-run, billion-dollar gateway to China


MUSE: With tinted home windows and their military identify emblazoned on the facet in their Ford truck, "Pan Say" warring parties cruise the sleazy streets of Muse, Myanmar's main gateway to China and awash with weapons and money from casinos, drugs and intercourse. Ten armed groups run the Shan State border the town of Muse, which is separated by a shallow river from the gleaming towers of its Chinese counterpart, Ruili.


All are beneath the tutelage of the same patron: Myanmar's army.

China and Myanmar have an agreement to not station troops along their border.

Instead, Myanmar's army makes use of the militias as proxies in a long-running war between the central state and ethnic rebellion groups who operate in the space, together with the Kachin Independence Army (KIA) and Taaung National Liberation Army (TNLA).

A fiendishly sophisticated, decades-old struggle for money, trade, assets and ethnic identity is taking part in out in Muse.

The Pan Say military gave AFP an extraordinary snapshot of the transferring alliances and rivalries that have outlined Myanmar's frontier spaces since its independence in 1948.

Each military "looks after its own business ... and we look after ours", a senior Pan Say member informed AFP as a batch of 30 contemporary recruits dressed in fatigues trained in a compound.

They have joined one in every of Muse's biggest militias, which boasts a number of hundred men, armed with M-16 rifles and Kalashnikovs.

Pan Say insists it is funded by its personal jade mines, cigarette factories and karaoke bars, denying knowledge of narcotics or different unlawful activities that prosper along the border.

Like different Muse militias, Pan Say approved a deal in 2009 to return beneath the military's keep watch over in trade for a degree of autonomy.

As a consequence, an uneasy truce exists between the militias, who've agreed to not engage in fight until ordered by the military.

The warring parties cast themselves as unconventional however necessary keepers of the peace, accusing the rebellion groups they fight towards of extortion and racketeering.

Experts are much less beneficiant of their definition.

The "wasps' nest of militias" are as a lot at the back of the town's illicit economic system because the rebels, says unbiased analyst David Mathieson.

"They drive around toting machine guns, running casinos, peddling yaba (low-grade methamphetamine), all as subcontractors of local security for the Myanmar military."

Either means the money helps to keep flowing.

Legal trade during the the town -- rice, fish and electrical goods -- totalled USD 1 billion between October and December, part of all of the nation's land border trade, consistent with reliable figures.

But the riches constituted of the huge quantities of meth, opium, unlawful animal parts and jade -- as well as women being bought into marriage in China -- are prone to dwarf those figures.

Myanmar is now some of the global's biggest resources of meth, with precursor chemical compounds from China feeding labs peppering the restive japanese borderlands, consistent with the UN's drug and crime company.

Lorries rumble in both instructions along a dust street to unlawful crossing points just outdoor Muse, beneath the watchful eye of militiamen of quite a lot of stripes.

Inside the town, barbed wire-clad walls and stern, gun-wielding guards give protection to a plethora of casinos, which can be suspected of laundering money from either side of the border.

Hotel rooms be offering piles of condoms, whilst drug dealers buzz across the low-budget brothels, which offer the town its reputation for sleaze, serving a brief inhabitants of border traders and long-distance drivers.

And potentialities are taking a look even higher for Muse's nefarious trades.

Routes between Muse and Myanmar's west coast are set to make stronger as funding pours in beneath China's so-called "Belt and Road" technique of boosting the infrastructure of key trade partners.

Better transport routes could smartly give a boost to the town's "illicit profiteering" -- no less than in the non permanent -- a recent record by International Crisis Group (ICG) predicts.

While money flows thru Muse, little trickles right down to its people.

Instead they run a daily gauntlet between the militias, rebels, drug addicts and petty criminals.

"We're scared to go out at night," says builder and father of two Kyaw Zin Latt, 23, who lately moved from the country's south for paintings.

An NGO provides some of the the town's few life-line public services and products -- a fleet of ambulances.

They retrieved casualties from an attack on a bridge near the border remaining May, through which 19 people have been killed, together with 15 civilians.

The offensive by ethnic rebellion team the TNLA descended into an eight-hour stand-off with the Pan Say military.


"A police officer was shot dead beside this building," says the NGO founder Thaung Tun, as he drives cautiously over the bridge.


It is now defended by the military, two other military groups and the police.


But outnumbered and outgunned, the cops languish a long way down Muse's pyramid of power.


"There are places that are too dangerous for us to go by ourselves," one police officer laments.


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